Apparel Material Science - Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued Sixth)

(11) Yarn A transparent, light-weight fabric made of twisted mulberry thread, rayon, or synthetic filaments. Its latitude and longitude density is relatively loose, the surface has all or part of the transparent yarn eyes, good air permeability, light texture, widely used as curtains, mosquito nets and summer clothing. Common varieties are: georgette, Lushan yarn, crepe, curtain yarn and so on.

a. Georgette yarn: The warp and weft yarns are made of strong twisted yarns, in which the warp yarns are 2S, 2Z, and the weft yarns are 2Z, 2S. It is characterized by light and thin texture, fine and uniform surface ridges, clear yarn holes, and drape. Suitable for summer dresses, shirts and wedding dresses.

b. Lushan Yarn: The traditional product of Huzhou City in Zhejiang Province adopts a plain jacquard woven fabric made of pure mulberry silk. The warp and weft threads are twisted, and the warp threads are arranged at intervals of 8S and 8Z, and the density is more than twice the weft density. The woven fabrics have the features of silk enamel, clear colors, clear bars, and a small gauze hole, light and cool feel, and good breathability. Suitable for summer shirts or trousers.

(12) Luoshen Use twisted yarns made of warp and weft woven twisted warp fabrics. Among them, there are two groups of warp yarns, a group of weft yarns, and woven into a horizontal or straight yarn hole on the surface of the sliver. They are called horizontal or straight yarns respectively. They have characteristics similar to those of yarns, so they are often linked together with yarns. Leno fabric. Its long history, many varieties, common are: Hang Luo, window Jin Luo, Su Luo and so on.

a. Hang Luo: native to Hangzhou, made of pure mulberry silk fabric, named "Hang Lo". It is composed of plain weave and leno weave. Its silk surface has straight or bar-shaped yarn holes of equal distance. The holes are clear, the texture is soft and smooth, and it is comfortable and cool, durable and washable. Mostly used as summer shirts, casual clothes fabrics.

b. Window Jin Luo: Jacquard silk fabric woven into mulberry silk fabrics, with a straight surface of the hole-shaped eye clear, and in which the woven flower and a small amount of features woven with weft flowers, light and crisp texture, drape, style chic . Mainly used for summer clothing or curtain decoration.

(13) This type of fabric is made of enamel tissue, plain weave, twill, etc., and a thick, wool-like silk fabric made of coarse-grained, warp-and-weave yarns is used as a silk fabric. In general, filaments and staple yarns are interwoven, but also mulberry silk and viscose filaments are used. According to the appearance characteristics, it can be divided into two types: woolen yarn and silk yarn. The main varieties are: Daweiwei, Wuyi, Kangle, Siwei, Dr. Do, and Zha Shi.

a. Dawei it: for the imitation of fabric, is a flat weft small jacquard class. The front is woven irregularly, and the reverse is organized with diagonal stripes. It has the characteristics of tight body, thick feel, soft luster, and dark silk patterns that are visibly visible as if they were carved. Suitable for making gowns, short-sleeves, etc.

b. Yarn: plain jacquard fabric made of viscose woven flat weft. It has a light, thin, flat, smooth feel and a faint dot pattern. Often used as a summer or spring clothing.

(14) The velvet type is made of mulberry silk or chemical fiber filaments, and the woven fabric made of napped or piled loops made of napped tissues is called velvet fabric. It has a tight, standing, soft texture, bright and bright color and rich in appearance. Elasticity and other characteristics. The main varieties are: velvet, Joe cashmere, gold velvet, velvet, embroidered velvet.

Velvet: also known as velvet, named after its origin in Zhangzhou, Fujian. It is a single layer warp-knitted fabric with a pile or fluff on the surface. With cashmere or hair thick towering, soft luster, texture, durable wear and other characteristics, mostly black, purple sauce color, apricot yellow, blue, brown based. It is often used as high-grade fabrics, hats, sofas, and cushion fabrics. Its storage is suitable for hanging, so as to avoid fluffing down, affecting the appearance.

b. Qiao Qi cashmere: The double layer velvet silk fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose silk is divided into double layers to form fluff. The raised part is made of viscose rayon, and the ground weft is made of strong mulberry silk, so it has the characteristics that the fluff is standing upright, it is inclined forward, the hand is soft, elastic, and the luster is soft. Joe's velvet can be trimmed, cut, velvet, burnt, printed and other finishing, get burnt Joe velvet, lacquer printing Qiaoqi Rong and other valuable species. Should be women's evening dresses and minority dresses.

c. Velvet: A napped double velvet fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and rayon. The method of weaving is the same as that of Qiaoqi Rong. The difference is that the vertical fluff is dense, short and flat and does not stand upright. With cashmere tight, soft and plump, soft gloss, tough texture and so on. Suitable for women's clothing, festive costumes and so on. When used, it should prevent splashing of water and cause unsightly water marks.



Fourth, the wool type fabric (a) The characteristics of the wool type fabric

The wool type fabric refers to a fabric made of wool, rabbit hair and other animal hair and wool type chemical fiber as main raw materials, including purely spun, blended and cross-fabric, commonly known as woolen cloth. The wool type fabric is a well-known high-grade fabric and has many advantages.

1. The composition of the woolen fabric is mostly wool fiber, so the moisture absorption is very good and the dyeing performance is good, but the color is mostly dark color.

2. Wool fabric has large elasticity, low thermal conductivity, and good heat preservation performance. With wool fiber

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